tnrkitect: (Default)
Following is a list of everything we hope to accomplish prior to putting our house on the market. I have struck out the items we have completed.

- Convert current large closet in middle bedroom into two smaller closets, creating a new closet in the front bedroom.
-- Cut hole in wall to front bedroom.
-- Frame in door opening, supporting existing stud wall above 30" opening with a double 2x4 header
-- trim out door jamb to final dimensions
-- hang door, to include recessing hinges into jamb
-- build stud wall dividing the two
-- install wiring for new light in larger half of closet, with lighted switch.
-- hang drywall on stud wall
-- spackle and caulk all walls, drywall and existing plaster on lathe
-- spackle and caulk all joints and knots in door frame casing and trim
-- Kilz the walls in the middle bedroom closet
-- Kilz the walls and ceiling in the new front bedroom closet
-- Paint the walls in the middle bedroom closet - Olympic paints "Rose Dust" A30-3
-- Paint the walls and ceiling in the front bedroom closet Olympic paints "Crumb Cookie" C20-1
-- kilz the door frame, jamb and trim
-- paint the door frame, jamb and trim
-- partially strip and sand down "new" vintage door purchased at the Habitat for Humanity ReStore warehouse.
-- spackle and Kilz the door
-- paint the door Olympic "Crumb Cookie"
-- stain threshold
-- install threshold
-- install closet rod bracket & rod in new closet
-- install shelving in new closet
-- hang the door on the closet

- Living Room
-- spackle cracks in plaster
-- caulk windows and trim edges
-- kilz spackled areas
-- paint entire room Olympic "Rose Dust"
-- paint all trim Olympic "Trim White"

-- touch up ceiling with Olympic "Ceiling White"

- Hallway
-- spackle cracks in plaster
-- caulk all trim
-- sand spackling
-- kilz spackling
-- paint all walls Home Depot "Blue Hue" previous homeowner used
-- paint all trim Olympic "Trim White"

-- Touch up ceiling with Olympic "Ceiling White"

- Bathroom (Most of this was renovated back before Christmas)
-- touch up ceiling with Olympic "Crumb Cookie"

- Laundry Room
-- scrape peeling paint by door
-- caulk joints in the real bead board
-- kilz area being touched up
-- paint area Home Depot "Mountain Sage" previous homeowner used
-- touch up door

- Front Bedroom
-- spackle cracks in plaster walls and around new door to new closet
-- sand spackling
-- touch up / repaint room in color matched Olympic paint (color taken from sample of plaster removed when we cut the door in)
-- caulk trim and windows

-- paint trim and windows Olympic "Trim White"

- Kitchen (The cabinets were redone when we moved in 2 years ago)
-- touch up cabinets with Olympic "Crumb Cookie"
-- spackle cracks in plaster
-- sand spackling
-- kilz spackling
-- touch up wall paint with Home Depot color used by previous owner
--caulk trim and window
-- touch up / paint window and trim Olympic "Trim White" or Olympic "Black Magic"

- Middle Bedroom
-- spackle cracks in plaster walls
-- sand spackling
-- kilz spackling
-- paint walls Olympic "Ash Mist" D60-3
-- caulk trim and window
-- paint trim and window Olympic "Trim White"
-- touch up ceiling with Olympic "Ceiling White"

- Back Bedroom
-- remove peeling wallpaper previous owners had painted over
-- spackle wall as needed
-- sand spackling
-- kilz spackling
-- paint walls Olympic "Crumb Cookie"
-- caulk windows and trim
-- paint windows and trim Olympic "Trim White"

- Exterior windows (11 total - 9 done so far)
-- scrape peeling paint from all window trim
-- caulk as needed
-- paint windows trim Olympic Exterior "Trim and Accent White"

- door to crawlspace / basement
-- scrape peeling paint
-- replace portion of frame trim that is rotten
-- caulk and
kilz new wood
-- paint door and trim Olympic Exterior "Trim and Accent White"

- back deck
-- spackle knots in wood where they are showing through paint
-- sand spackling
-- kilz spackling
-- paint fixed areas

- Front porch
-- scrape peeling paint from ceiling, columns, downspout
-- clean and repair railing
-- caulk joints in ceiling

-- paint ceiling, door, columns, and railing Olympic exterior "Trim and Accent White"
-- clean porch floor
-- paint porch floor in Green left over from previous homeowner

- crawlspace / basement
-- fix insulation that is falling down from floor joists
-- fix drip in cold water line
-- build basement retaining wall

- yard - these are an ongoing process
-- weed and trim bushes around house to ensure they are not touching house
-- weed garden
-- mulch certain areas
-- replenish pea gravel walk in certain areas
-- keep yard mowed
-- trim back tree limbs from roof at back deck
-- make new slats for bench
-- kilz and paint new slats for bench
-- reassemble garden bench

-- gutter (today, late pm)
-- door frame on basement (today, next)

-- chimney (tomorrow, am)
-- low bricks (tomorrow, am)
-- fix fence post
-- closet shelf (today, pm)
-- sign for porch(today, pm)
tnrkitect: (Default)
Today's project is brought to you by the words: leaky toilet.

We have noticed that the vinyl sheet flooring beside our toilet is getting discolored, and looking a little, um, "moldy". Extra cleaning of the flooring did not help (we regularly clean our bathroom already, thank you). It was still discolored.

So what to do?

The discoloration is a symptom. The cause is that the wax ring which sits under toilet between the toilet and the plumbing pipe flange and seals the connection between the two, has developed a leak. It is probably small, but a leak nonetheless. This is the cause of the discoloration.

To fix the problem requires removing the toilet and replacing the wax ring. This will not fix the flooring, which can not be truly cleaned up aesthetically at this point, so that needs to be replaced while we are at it.

Now, we have future plans to redo the bathroom completely, with a clawfoot tub, a pedestal sink, and ceramic tile all around, but that work is not in our budgets (monetary or time). So, we are left with doing a semi-temporary fix. The semi-temporary part comes from the fact that we need to fix the problem, and although we have plans for the future, they are not guaranteed to occur prior to our selling and moving, especially since the solution we have in a visual upgrade to what was in there.

Our options for non-tile flooring consists of vinyl sheet flooring, vinyl plank flooring, vinyl tile flooring, composite wood flooring, or wood flooring.

We like the concept of a wood floor, however there is the issue of a bathroom being a very humid, wet environment, which is not a good environment for wood. The wood floor would be prone to warping and swelling, not to mention eventually rotting.

Composite wood flooring is a little better, as it handles the moisture better. However, it is still prone to all of the drawbacks of the real wood floor. Plus it tends to be expensive for good quality flooring which can handle a wet environment better.

A previous owner used vinyl sheet flooring, which is a good option. It creates a solid, seamless surface for the floor, which means there are no cracks for water to get down to where it can cause serious damage. The main problem with it is that you have two ways of getting it: a precut option which is roughly a 6 ft x 7 ft sheet, and custom cut from 12 ft rolls.

The precut would be perfect, and the cheapest option, but the local home improvement stores only had a few options, all of which were UGLY.

The by the foot custom cut would have been cheaper, except for the fact that the roll is 12 ft long, and you have to pay for all 12 feet. As an example, the size that we need is only a 6 ft by 6 ft piece, however we would have had to buy a 6ft by 12 ft sheet in order to have a usable piece. That's not gonna happen.

This leaves us with either vinyl tile or vinyl planks.

The vinyl tile is a roughly 1/4" thick piece of rigid vinyl, with a veneer layer on top that has the colored pattern on it, and is available in a self adhered version or one requiring a separate adhesive. They typically come in 12 inch by 12 inch squares.

The vinyl planks are similar, except that they are thinner, about 1/8 inch, and they are typically 4 inches by 36 inches. This size is due to the pieces typically being colored to resemble a wood plank flooring. My wife feels that these actually look better than some of the composite wood flooring products. Again, they come in either self-stick or separately adhered versions.

The draw backs to the vinyl tile or vinyl planks over the sheet flooring is the seams between the pieces can allow water to seep down between them and cause problems with the subflooring (rot) or can cause the adhesive to fail, or get trapped under a tile creating a "bubble".

The solution to this is simple. Use a floor wax/polish product like Mop & Glow, that essentially lays down a thin layer of product that seals the floor. Yes, it requires regular cleaning and reapplication, but that is a small price to pay for the headaches that it avoids.

So, this afternoon, I will be digging into this project, and will hopefully have it done by bedtime. All I have to do is:

1. Remove the base molding at the edges (carefully so it can be reused)
2. Remove the toilet & old wax ring.
3. Remove the old flooring.
4. Clean the sub-floor.
5. Install the new vinyl plank flooring.
6. Install a new wax ring and reinstall the toilet.
7. Caulk the of the toilet except for a 2 inch gap at the rear, so if the wax ring does begin to leak again it will only mess up behind the toilet.
8. Reinstall the base molding.

Wish me luck!


tnrkitect: (Default)
tnrkitect - Musings of an Unconventional Mind

June 2011



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